Growing Watermelons

growing watermelons in the garden

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Sweet, juicy homegrown watermelons capture the magic of summer with explosive taste that puts store-bought melons to shame. Like their cantaloupe cousins, watermelons demand 2 to 3 months of heat to produce ripe fruit, which makes growing watermelons in northern regions challenging, but not impossible. By using plastic mulch to warm soil and floating row covers to trap warm air near plants, gardeners in any part of the country can experience the homegrown goodness of watermelons.

Nutritionists have found that watermelon should be in most people’s diets because of all the health-promoting vitamin C and antioxidants—including beta-carotene and lycopene—in every bite. These fruits combine great taste with excellent nutrition, with no cholesterol and nearly no fat—in other words, the perfect dessert.

Soil, Planting, and Care

Kids love to eat homegrown watermelon in summer.

Slicing into a crisp, vine-ripened, homegrown watermelon is one of summer’s great pleasures.

Growing watermelons requires warm soil. Don’t tuck plants into the garden until soil temperature is above 70 degrees F, which typically occurs about the time peonies bloom in northern zones. To be safe, wait until at least 2 weeks past your area’s last frost date. Prior to planting, cover soil with black plastic to hasten soil warming. Because watermelons are heavy feeders, prepare your planting bed by adding seaweed, compost, or rotted manure. For best nutrient uptake, the soil pH should be between 6 and 6.8, although the plants will tolerate a pH as low as 5. If you live near a horse farm, another option that works well is to excavate the soil 1 foot deep, add a 9-inch-thick layer of fresh manure, and then cover that with 3 inches of soil mixed with compost. This creates a bed with a high-nitrogen soil base that’s naturally warm. Some gardeners even plant melons in their compost piles to ensure a warm footing and adequate nitrogen.

Give watermelon vines plenty of room to roam, which usually means spacing plants 3 to 5 feet apart. After planting, cover seedlings with floating row covers to keep out insects and trap warm air near plants.

Watermelon plants form very long vines that need plenty of garden space.

Give watermelon vines plenty of room to roam.

Watermelon vines bear male and female flowers. Don’t be alarmed when some of the male flowers, which appear first, fall off shortly after they open; they are followed by female blossoms about a week later. The female flowers, which have a small swelling at the base of the flower, stay on the vine to bear fruit. When vines start to bear both male and female flowers, remove row covers.

Tackle weeds before vines start to run because it will be difficult to move among vines at a later stage without crushing them. Mulching soil under the vines helps suppress weeds and slows moisture evaporation.

Water plays an important role in keeping vines healthy and producing delicious fruit. Vines are most sensitive to drought during the time from planting to when fruits start to form. Avoid overhead watering. Soaker hoses or drip irrigation deliver water directly to soil, helping prevent possible spread of fungal diseases among wet foliage. Keep soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged, which will kill plants. It’s typical for leaves to wilt under midday sun, but they shouldn’t remain wilted into evening. Water vines early in the morning so leaves can dry before sunset, which will further help prevent fungal diseases.

growing watermelons on straw mulch

Wheat straw is an effective, inexpensive way to keep growing melons from coming in contact with the soil.

Keep ripening watermelon from direct contact with soil to prevent rot and protect fruit from pests and rodents. When fruit is about the size of a softball, place it on a bed of straw or cardboard. Setting fruit on a light-reflecting surface, such as aluminum foil, will concentrate heat and speed up ripening. If large critters, such as groundhogs, discover your melons, protect ripening fruits by covering them with laundry baskets weighted down with a few bricks.

Some gardeners like to switch fertilizer during the course of the growing season. To do this, use a fertilizer with more nitrogen than phosphorus and potassium during the period between planting and when the first flowers open. Once flowering begins, use a fertilizer with less nitrogen and more phosphorus and potassium, such as African violet food or liquid seaweed.

Some believe that pinching off a vine’s growing shoots as watermelons start to ripen will cause the plant to divert all its energies to fruit ripening. Recent research has shown this to be false. It’s a vine’s leaves that produce the sugars that sweeten fruit, so anything that reduces the total number of leaves available for sugar production actually lessens the sweetness of the melon.

In colder regions, remove any blossoms that start to develop within 50 days of your area’s first average frost date. This will help ensure that remaining, larger fruits will ripen before frost.


Watermelons are in the same plant family as squash and cucumbers, but they do not cross-pollinate successfully. Your garden will depend on bees to pollinate the flowers, so cool, cloudy weather in the spring will slow down their development, as bees are less active in such conditions. Be patient until the weather warms.

Fungal diseases can multiple rapidly on melon leaves. Alternaria leaf spot, anthracnose, and gummy stem blight produce spots on leaves, while stem blight also forms bleached or tan sections on stems and rot on fruit. Downy mildew causes yellow or pale green leaf spots, while powdery mildew produces white spots on leaves. Treat fungal diseases with fungicides. Check with your local garden center or Extension Service to learn which fungicides are approved in your state for the disease you’re fighting.

Also be on the lookout for pests. Melon aphids, for example, can quickly colonize a vine, so inspect leaf undersides daily. If you spot aphids, treat them with insecticidal soap. Spotted and striped cucumber beetles can attack vines, transmitting bacterial wilt disease, which causes vines to collapse without chance of recovery. Treat adult beetles with rotenone or a pyrethrum-based insecticide; apply at dusk to avoid harming honey bees.

Harvest and Storage

You can tell if a watermelon is ripe by looking at the belly. It should be yellow.

When a melon is ripe, its belly will go from near white to creamy yellow. This melon is turned to show its belly, which is the spot on which the melon rested on the ground.

Watermelons typically ripen over two weeks. As soon as one melon is ripe, the others won’t be far behind. About a week before a melon is ripe, water only as necessary to keep vines from wilting. Withholding water causes sugars to concentrate in the fruit. Too much water reduces sweetness.You can judge a watermelon’s ripeness by its skin color. The rind changes from a bright to a dull green, and the part that touches the soil shifts from greenish white or straw yellow to rich, creamy yellow. Gardeners also judge a watermelon’s ripeness by rapping on the skin and listening for a low-pitched thud. Tune your ear to the incorrect sound by rapping on a few fruits that aren’t ripe. Underripe fruits resonate with a high-pitched, tinny sound.

Watermelons will keep 2 to 3 weeks unrefrigerated. Place them in a cool basement to increase their holding time. After cutting, refrigerate unused portions. If you have extra melon on hand, dice or cut the flesh into balls and freeze for slushies.


How do you know when a watermelon is ready to be picked?

Ripe watermelons break easily from the vine when twisted. If you try to pick a melon and it fails to twist off easily, it probably isn’t ripe yet. Another sign of ripeness is when the underside changes from white to rich yellow.

Will a watermelon turn sweeter the longer you wait after harvest to eat it?

No. Watermelons stop ripening once they are removed from the vine. They should be picked at their desired ripeness.

How do you know if a watermelon is going to be sweet?

If you thump a watermelon and it sounds hollow, then you know it is going to be sweet and delicious.

How do you store watermelons?

Store whole watermelons in a cool place. When a refrigerator is not handy, you can cool watermelons down in a clean creek or ice chest.

138 thoughts on “Growing Watermelons

  1. Hello
    I’m the poster that had too many watermelons on the vine. I live in Az. Well, now the watermelons are turning yellow and shriveling up after a few days. When they are young, they have green stripes on them, but eventually, they turn yellow. The plant itself in general looks great, no yellowing, or burning. Some of the vines starting to shrivel as they get longer. They are watered 2 times daily about 1/2 gallon each time. I’m wondering if they are getting too much sun. They are in full sun most of the day. Thank you.

    • Hi Mary,
      Try watering deeply. Water until the soil is moist about 6 inches or so into the ground. When watering a little at a time, roots stay very shallow and require water more frequently. Mulching around the plants will help conserve some soil moisture. If your watermelons are turning yellow quickly after flowering, pollination may be a problem. Take a look at these Bonnie Plants tips on pollination in cucurbits (watermelons, squash, cucumber, pumpkins). – danielle, Bonnie Plants

  2. I really didn’t know much about planting but I started with cantalope and watermelon. I planted them during December, and they didn’t start growing until mid January. I just used dark soil found in the backyard. Now it’s may and sometimes it gets crazy hot. And the cantaloupe barely has two small vines. My question is what can I do to make it grow faster.

    • Hello Kaori,
      It may be helpful if you let me know where you are gardening. Have you used any fertilizer since the vegetables were planted? Cantaloupes and watermelons are both pretty heavy feeders. – danielle, Bonnie Plants

  3. I planted some watermelon seeds in an area of my yard. They are growing like crazy. The problem I have is I planted them in an area about 3 ft wide and 20 feet long. Also they area surrounding them is cement. I didn’t think they would grow. Now there are about 5 or 6 watermelons growing on each plant. (3) I can tell they aren’t going to have enough room to grow 5 each plant! So my question is would you advise I cut off some of the young ones growing?

    • Hi Mary,
      Too many watermelon is a great problem to have. If the plants were spaced far enough apart, you may be able to train the vines down the 20 feet of soil and keep all the watermelons (although many on vine tend to be smaller than just a few). If you are not going to have enough room for all the vines, you might select some of the watermelons to mature. -danielle, Bonnie Plants

  4. Recently I’ve purchased somesweet baby watermelon seedlings from wal-mart….well one plant has bent at the center of the plant….how can i revive the plant before it completly dies

    • Hello Elizabeth,
      If the main stem is broken, you may want to get another plant. If one of the leaf stems coming off the main stem is bent or broken during transplant, I would not worry so much as you should see new leaves coming out soon. – Danielle, Bonnie Plants

  5. My question. I live in South Dakota and wanted to get an early start for my watermelons. I placed them in a indoor green house and got great results, but then as I was playing with the little ones a ball landed in the green house now my steams are white and the leaves fell off. Is there any hope or do I need to restart?

    • Hi Brett,
      If the stems are white and all the leaves fell off, you may want to replant. While possible to regrow new leaves – if there is current growth – you want to start off with healthy transplants. -danielle, Bonnie Plants

  6. i Planted watermelon in a large pot and it turned out to be a charleston gray i dont have a garden so what size container can i use to grow this now. i also sprayed my area with pesticide and now i find that they need bee pollenation what should i do now just stop spraying and hope bees or pollenation will happen. Also when i repot the watermelon plant will it kill it

    • Hi Barbra,
      You can grow watermelon in a large pot, just know that it is a vining plant and the vines will sprawl up to 8-10 feet. You will not be able to grow the entire plant in a container. I would go with a container at least 5 gallons in size. It’s wise to hold off on insecticides that are harmful to pollinating bees when the watermelon is in bloom. Hand pollination is always a choice when insects are scarce! -Danielle, Bonnie Plants

    • Hello Rajkumar,
      Take a look at the harvest and storage tab above. In addition to these suggestions, keep an eye out on the plants tendrils – the tendril closest to the fruit often dries up when the watermelon is ready for harvest. – Danielle, Bonnie Plants

  7. I am going to start planting melons this weekend, I have my seedling in individual 2½” peat moss containers, I plan to cut the bottom of the container before planting them then dig a hole in the compost and bury them, once finish burying them I will cover most of the area with mulch.

    BTW the melons are, sweet babies, crimson, piel de sapo, cantaloupe & Honey Dew

    Am I proceeding correctly?

    • Hi Juan,
      Sounds like you are on your way to a wonderful garden! – Danielle, Bonnie Plants

  8. I have several watermelon plants growing but they are developing white spots on the leaves (some leaves are completely white) and dried out. I’m not sure what could be causing it we have had plenty of rain lately and my plants are in raised mounds. the plants look healthy otherwise.

    • Hello david,
      Have you had any cool weather? Veggies in the cucurbit family like watermelon and squash will turn a whitish color if subjected to cold temperatures and wind. Powdery mildew is also a possibility. Powdery mildew is a fungus that attacks a lot of different plants including those in the cucurbit family during hot, dry weather. It looks like it sounds…like a white powder that – You will be able to wipe it from the leaves if you try! This is a publication from Clemson Cooperative Extension with pictures for you to compare! – danielle, Bonnie Plants

  9. Hello I am growing cherry tomatoes,kandy corn, cantalope, and watermelon all organic. And I have started them in a seed starting kit. I have transplanted each watermelon into their own container and I have them in a south facing window and sometimes ill leave the window up. It has been 15 days and they look good to me, but they are like 5 inches tall but their second set of true leaves is still trying to come in. A couple have one true leave that’s sprouted out of the middle of the first leaves. The stems are kinda thin to me, maybe the thickness of a dandelion,which may be normal but i dont want them to get “leggy” but the stems are very strong. My cherry tomatoes are about 3 in tall and are still in the starter kit there are maybe 8 plants per cube (which might be too many) so should I separate those? And should my watermelon and cantalope be 5in tall and just now producing their first true leaves? I think my corn is ok so far I planted them 5 says ago and they are now about 2in tall.

    • Hello Bri,
      Your seedlings are probably leggy because of lack of light. Window light is usually not enough to start healthy seedlings. Additional light is usually needed. This is a great publication from Purdue Univeristy extension on starting seeds indoors.
      -Danielle, Bonnie Plants

  10. I live in Arizona and am trying out some California Sweet watermelon this year. I tried growing them the last few ears but they either never sprouted or the store bought starters died soon after transplant. Three weeks ago I started some seeds indoors and two sprouted. They were doing great and I moved them to my main garden outside. A few days later my klutz of a dad was helping me and stepped on one of them. It died since the stem snapped. I planted another seed and am hoping it will sprout. Is it too late in the year for the plants to grow well? Our 110+ degree summers make growing plants a bit difficult. If so is there any way I can try and help my plants?

    • Hello Aiya,
      Arizona is a big place and the planting dates vary with regions. Here are the planting dates for Arizona based on your region. The best way to help your plants is to water, fertilize, and scout for pests like insects and diseases. Mulch well – this keeps soil moisture in and helps mediate the soil temperatures. Your dad is not too much of a klutz – I stepped on my own squash plant the other day :) – Danielle, Bonnie Plants

  11. Bush Baby Watermelons –

    I live in Chicago and planted watermelons in a long planter, training the vines to race along the back fence. They did well until the end of the summer when they stopped ripening. At the end, they were all rine in the middle.

    What did I do wrong? Too many flowers or too much water when it was 100 degrees?

    • Hello Bobette
      It was a HOT summer! Temperatures probably had a lot to do with it. A lot of fruit was off shaped and off late last summer and fall because of the high temperatures. Did they get as big as they were supposed to? If not, you may have had a common problem with pollination. This is common with plants in the cucurbit family. – Danielle, Bonnie Plants

  12. An orange colour beetle is always eating and attacking my watermelon plant. Pls tell me how to tackle it.

    • Hi Rajkumar,
      It is very possible you are speaking of the spotted or striped cucumber beetle. I am including a link from Virginia Tech with pictures for you to compare. You can find control measure under the trouble shooting tab in the above article.
      -Danielle, Bonnie Plants

  13. Last year I tried growing watermelon in central Missouri. The plants took off like gangbusters and soon had several melons. It was very hot last summer and not much rain, so I water several times each week. I waited and tried to follow the signs of a ripe watermelon. Brown near the stem, thumping, …however when I cut into one it was light pink and had a lot of white rind in it. I waited almost a additional month before finally harvesting the other 7 or so melons and they all looked just the like ones from earlier. Please help. PS.. can I use cow manure for fertilizer?

    • Hi Tani,
      Do you remember the variety of watermelon that you grew last year? Some varieties of watermelon ripen in aout 80 days while other take over 100 days – a long summer. You can also try placing the fruit on a reflective surface like aluminum foil to speed up ripening. Here are more tips from your home state’s extension system. Before adding fertilizers to your garden, you may consider a soil test, available from your local extension system. This takes the quess work out of fertilizing. Yes, cow manure can be used for fertilizer, but I warn against using fresh manures. Adding organic matter in the form of composted manures is good for soil health while providing nutrients to the plants.
      -Danielle, Bonnie Plants

  14. Hi Marry Beth Danny English agine Iam good at bean,corn,tomato,ect Iam not verry good at melon I use compost manure and miraclegrow ect my fruit nevrer get any size I readed every thing abouth growing thim but no luck thank Danny

    • Hi Danny,
      I’m not sure why your watermelons aren’t producing for you. They love really warm soil, warm weather, and adequate water. Start well after danger of frost has passed in soil that has been hilled (and even tarped with black groundcover to warm soil if you are in a cooler spring climate). If you can be more specific about your problems or clues as to what you see in your garden, send a photo and we can help. ~Mary Beth, Bonnie Plants

  15. Can I keep new vines in warm spot ( in house) until spring in no.california??
    I brought some seeds home from a local restaurant this summer and planted them
    In a clay pot.
    They grew quickly outside as hot here, but might cool off soon and I am sad
    They will die.
    Sherry whiting

    • Hi Sharyn,
      Your watermelon plants won’t survive past the first frost. You should hopefully have mature fruit before the seasons change and the temperatures dip lower. Watermelons are annuals, meaning they live for one season in the year and must be replanted the following year. I’m not sure that you can support the size and space requirements they’ll need inside. Just remember for next year that most varieties take about 100 days to mature with fruit, so plant in Spring after danger of frost has passed and allow enough sunny, hot days for a nice homegrown fruit. Regards, Mary Beth / Bonnie Plants

  16. This summer, I planted my first watermelons. I live in zone 6 up in Pennsylvania, so to get a head start on the growing season, I started my watermelons inside in little peat pots. The seeds I planted did not want to grow, so by the time one actually sprouted, it was the beginning of June. I moved my plant outside to my prepared garden bed (mixture of mushroom compost, aged horse manure, and bagged compost) at the end of June. My seedling still had its two seed leaves, and one grown up leaf. I left for vacation a few days later, and had asked a neighbor to come water my plants while i was gone. When I got back a couple weeks later, all my other plants had gone through an explosion of growth, but my watermelon was still on the small side.
    I added some more aged horse manure to the bed, and started watering the plant with diluted coffee water. The plant perked up a bit, and a few more leaf buds grew, but it took about a month for them to open.
    Now its almost the end of October, the night temperatures are in the low forties, and the sun its cloudy all the time. The plant is still alive. I bought one of those clear plastic storage containers to use as a mini greenhouse, and stuck some warm water bottles around my plant to heat up its growing space. This plant is about a foot and a half wide, and just started growing two baby watermelons (each the size of my fingertip).

    My question is, what can I do to make this plant grow faster and give me at least one melon before the first snow? Please don’t tell me to give up, I’m tired of people telling me that. I know there’s a very small chance of it surviving long enough to grow fruit, but I want to try anyway.

    Thanks for your help,

    • Hi Lisa,
      We would never tell you to give up! The thrill of gardening also comes from triumphs over trial and error. What you’ve learned this season is that watermelon–more than most crops–loves really hot temperatures and full, full sun. You also learned a patient lesson of starting melon seeds in peat pots inside with proper lighting and moisture, as opposed to using our more established seedlings or planting the seeds directly in the soil outside. Where you are it takes a while for the soil to heat up in spring. Some gardeners use black groundcover cloth over the hills of watermelon seedlings to capture more of the sun’s heat and to retain it longer through the night. Your plants will need about 90-100 days of growing time from planting to maturity for a ripe fruit, though it sounds like you should start counting when the seedling truly began to off. At this point, you are racing the clock of Jack Frost, as watermelons don’t like to grow during cooler nights and won’t survive the freezing temps. In addition to our article here with tabs on growing, care, harvesting and troubleshooting using our healthy transplants, you can read this Extension document from Maryland. If you are married to making this watermelon produce this season, you’ll have to go a few extra steps to ensure it has a mini-greenhouse to retain heat, and hand-pollinate the baby melons with blooms to ensure they are pollinated (bees won’t be able to do their work if you have it encased). I don’t want to discourage you after going this far, but I’m guessing Jack Frost is nipping at your heels in Pennsylvania right now! As we gardeners like to say, next year’s garden is going to be EVEN BETTER! Join our Facebook page and sign up for our newsletter, too, for regular advice and encouragement. ~Mary Beth, Bonnie Plants

  17. I’m curious of what the lifespan of a watermelon vine is. Mine has taken over my front yard, making mowing difficult. The plus side is we’ve harvested 2 good melons, one partial ripened melon, and had several lost to rot.

    • Hi Paul,
      Your watermelon vine will not survive a hard freeze. It’ll give you the yard back just in time for you to spend your time raking and bagging leaves instead! If you live in an area that doesn’t experience seasonal changes and temperature lows, your vine shouldn’t last much longer than 4-5 months; some report under a year. Hopefully you will have a few more ripe melons to reward your hard work. And you know…you can always remove it when it has become too troublesome. It’ll make great compost. ~Mary Beth, Bonnie Plants

  18. We have nice big beautiful watermelons but they won’t ripen. It has been very hot here in Tenn so they have certainly had enough heat and we have been very diligent about watering and feeding. We had cantelope in the same garden and they ripened and were delicious and sweet but every melon we’ve cut open is still white inside. What’s our problem?

    • Hi Judy,
      It may be as simple as time and patience. Your cantaloupes will ripen quicker than large watermelons. Give it a little more time. Look for a dried tendril on the vine near the stem and a yellow spot (not cream or white) on the bottom of the melon before picking. It’s truly an art and a lot of trial and error in learning to pick the perfect ripe melon! Sounds like your fruits just need to soak up a little more sun and warmth. Has it been beyond 100 days? ~Mary Beth, Bonnie Plants

    • You probably have accidently used seed that has crossed with a citron melon or a melon used for confiserie or pig food. If they never get red and stay whitish green inside. Most likely that is your problem. I had this happen once and ended up with the problem for two years. It all started with accidently purchasing some melon plants they use the rind for fruit cake etc. one year. Those plants crossed with good melons of which I saved the seed. Well guess what happened I had a lot of big green melons even even with stripes that were totally inedible. By the way those very hardy green melon plants grow very well and you get a lot of worthless melons even in poor soil and they resist just about everything that can go wrong with edible watermelons. Seems they would make a great grafting melon plant.

    • Hi Joe,
      Your watermelon plants won’t survive past the first frost. You should hopefully have mature fruit before the seasons change and the temperatures dip lower. Watermelons are annuals, meaning they live for one season in the year and must be replanted the following year. ~Mary Beth, Bonnie Plants

  19. Will a melon not taste as good if its seeds were harvested from a store bought melon?

  20. Hi, This is my first year in trying to grow the yellow meated watermelons. So far I have about 4 watermelons 25lbs, 10lbs, 7lbs and one that just started growing. The temperatures here are dropping to the upper and lower 60s at night and upper 80s-90s during the day. The leaves are starting to die off at the beginning of the plants and following to the watermelons. Does this mean it is the end for my watermelon plant or…? I don’t know if I should keep watering if the plant is already dying or hold off a bit to the sweeten the watermelon during the last two weeks before I pick them also?

    • Hi Chheng, We suggest that you keep watering and feeding your plant until a week or so before you’re ready to harvest, then you can hold back to sweeten the fruit. You can read more about this technique in the Harvest & Storage tab above. It sounds like your melons might be almost ready, especially the 25-pounder, so I’d suggest you start reducing your watering and get ready to harvest the melons soon. Enjoy! Kelly, Bonnie Plants

  21. My sugar-baby melons are getting brown spots about the size of a quarter, on the top of the fruit, that eventually causes them to rot. I’ve been having problems with fungus. Is there any hope for them? I live in Missouri and we had a bad drought this year……….Terry

    • Hi Terry,
      Sorry to hear it! Take a look at this document from Missouri’s Cooperative Extension service to see if you can identify what is affecting your melons. They have assembled a helpful list of photos that may make it easy to pinpoint and treat. Good luck! ~Mary Beth, Bonnie Plants

  22. I doubt that you remember me but in 1985 I was the regional manager in charge of the garden centers in Texas. One of your trucks showed up one day with vegetables & flowers. I was so impressed with your firm that I called Our International Headquarters & had your firm listed for all stores. I’m retired now but still remember the good ol’ days. I still buy your veggies from Home Depot. Regards, Dave Stephens

    • Hi David,
      What a wonderful message to receive! I personally was not with Bonnie in 1985 but I know many people who were (and still are) with the company. I will happily pass your kind words along to the team here. Congratulations on your hard-earned retirement. Wishing you many seasons of great gardens ahead. Follow us along here and on our Facebook page if you like. Many folks share garden photos and memories there. Warm regards, Mary Beth/Bonnie Plants

  23. I have a few questions, next year I want to try growing watermelons.

    -I am already growing honeydew melons and i read the page about them and I jut read this page and it looks like watermelons are harder to grow than honeydews, are they?

    -If you plant a seed from a store bought melon will it not taste as good as seed that you can buy in a package at a store?

    -How long does it usually take for them to grow so that I can harvest them?


    • Hi Adri,
      I am certain that if you are already successfully growing honeydew melons, you will enjoy growing watermelons. They, too, need room to sprawl and vine and behave similarly. At Bonnie Plants, we sell you transplants so that you may have a healthy “headstart” by growing established seedlings. Here’s a link to the varieties we currently carry in the Spring/Summer: Most varieties mature around 80 days. Good luck! ~Mary Beth, Bonnie Plants

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