- The bizarre shape of tomatoes like this may be brought on by cooler-than- normal weather.
- Tomato skin can split when the plant takes up water faster than the fruit can expand. It’s common after dry weather.
- Blossom end rot is the only item on this list that you can’t completely ignore, although it too may stop appearing on its own when plants are no longer under drought stress. Keep the soil evenly moist.
- If tomato blooms fall off due to hot or cold weather, sit tight. They’ll stop dropping when temperatures return to normal.
- Some varieties don’t naturally turn red on top, but keep “green shoulders” even when ripe.
Sometimes a tomato doesn’t turn out looking like you’d expect. Here are some odd things you might see that are caused by neither insects nor diseases.
Bizarrely shaped fruit. Also called catfacing, this has nothing do with cats; the word describes puckering or misshapen fruit. It can happen to strawberries and tomatoes exposed to temperatures below 50 degrees when in bloom or setting fruit. The cool weather interferes with pollination and can cause the blossom to stick to the developing fruit, which keeps part of the fruit from developing. Meanwhile, another part does develop, so you end up with weird-looking and scarred fruit. It is most common on large-fruited types.
Split skin. When a tomato fills up with water too fast, usually after a dry spell, the skin can split. Some varieties are “crack resistant,” which means they don’t split easily, but none are crack proof. If you harvest and eat fruit with cracks right away, it will be okay. Left on the plant, it will be discovered by little beetles or will rot.
Sunscald. Tomato plants protect their fruit with an umbrella of leaves. In bright, hot weather, fruit exposed to the sun may develop a scalded, or sunburned, spot. This is most common on green fruit. At first a yellow patch appears on the part of the tomato that is in hot, direct sunlight; when the fruit ripens, it forms a gray spot with a papery surface. This is not a reason to avoid full sun unless you live in a desert climate, where a little afternoon shade is okay. Tomatoes have enough foliage cover to avoid this problem on most of the fruit.
Sunburned leaves. If your brand-new tomato plants suddenly developed gray-white blotches on the leaves in hot and sunny weather shortly after planting, it could be a simple case of sunburn. The plants may have been in the dark on our truck and then in the shade at the store for a few days. When suddenly set out in full blazing sun, the leaves can burn. Don’t worry: the plant will recover. Isn’t it interesting that leaves, like our winter skin, may react to that first sudden burst of sun?
Green shoulders. Some tomatoes naturally keep a little green coloring at the top, or “shoulder,” of the fruit. This is a genetic trait. Pick the fruit when the rest of the fruit looks ripe. This is most common in heirlooms and older hybrids.
Bumpy stems. You may see lots of little raised bumps on the main stems that trigger your alarm bell. This is usually nothing bad. It’s just the “root primordia,” or earliest stage of a root that would develop if the stem were underground. They are most common in wet weather. Occasionally the bumps signal underground root damage, so watch the overall health of the plants.
Blooms fall off. If spring weather is too cool, or a summer heat wave sets in, the blooms of tomatoes may drop. Things will improve when the temperature gets back to normal. Normally tomatoes need temperatures between 55 and 75 or 80 degrees to set fruit, but Bonnie’s varieties are specially bred to take a little more punishment. You may plant early varieties (such as Early Girl) and extra heat-tolerant varieties (such as Heatwave and Sweet 100) if weather extremes are typical where you live. See our tomato varieties page for tomatoes best adapted to cool or hot climates.
Bottom of tomato rots. This is probably blossom-end rot, a condition that has several causes and is common in dry weather. Read more about in the tomatoes section of the Learn & Grow Library.







The leaves on my tomato plant are turning yellow what is wrong?
Hi Janice,
Please submit your question and a photograph to our Ask an Expert service. Through this service, Bonnie Plants and the Cooperative Extension System bring you the resources of a nationwide network of professionals in gardening and related fields to provide answers and solutions to your specific gardening questions. I hope this helps!
Best,
Kelly, Bonnie Plants
should tomato plant sucked to one to two stems or more or left as is thant Danny
Hi Danny,
Removing stems is not necessary, but some gardeners like to remove lower stems that might be splashed with soil. This can help prevent diseases and keep plants looking clean. If you do this, you only need to prune off the lower stems up to 12 to 18 inches off the ground. Happy growing!
Kelly, Bonnie Plants
is it ok to plant chives and basil in the same pot as a tomato plant?
Hi Molly,
Absolutely! We love to mix herbs and vegetables in containers. Just be sure you choose a container large enough for both. We suggest a 24-inch-diameter container for a tomato (or other vegetable) and herbs.
Happy growing!
Kelly, Bonnie Plants
Hi I just planted and but my tomato plants out and it looks like the leaves have turned white. Can you tell me if this is a disease and if so how to cure it like i said I just planted them in the container with organic soil that feeds them up to 3 months I can’t see how this could be a disease already. Maybe it’s sunburt and thats the color they get before they turn brown can you please help out?
Hi Brian,
We have a service called Ask an Expert especially for questions such as yours. I will forward your question there, but you might also submit it again through Ask an Expert and include a photograph for best results. I hope you get the answers you need!
Kelly, Bonnie Plants